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目的：构建适用于攀岩运动专项技术综合评估的测试平台，以抠法技术为例，提出技术水平监测评估的手段方法并验证有效性。方法：搭建攀岩运动员综合技术测试平台，包括自主研发的综合技术测力系统、手指压力测试设备、表面肌电测试设备、电子握力计和高速摄像机。选择攀岩运动关键的3种手型的抠法技术（开放式抠法、半封闭式抠法和全封闭式抠法）进行测试。选取支点牵引力、爆发力、手指压力、上肢肌电活动等为关键指标，分析不同手型抠法技术的生物力学特征，构建一种攀岩运动员综合技术的测试分析方法。结果：综合技术测量设备信度检验的组内相关系数为0.922和0.953。攀岩者使用开放式抠法的峰值支点牵引力为（305.6±82.7）N，半封闭式为（331.1±75.0）N，全封闭式为（387.3±80.0）N。不同手型抠法的力学及上肢肌电指标存在显著差异。握力计握力仅与全封闭式抠法的支点牵引力存在相关性。结论：抠法的手型影响“人-支点”的作用关系，不同手型抠法的力量、爆发和手指作用模式存在差异，全封闭式抠法的支点控制力和爆发表现优于半封闭式和开放式，但可能增加前臂和手部疲劳和损伤风险；握力计在评价运动员力量和技术水平存在局限性。
Abstract：Objective: To develop a comprehensive evaluation platform for rock-climbing techniques, focusing on the crimp grip technique, to propose a method for monitoring and evaluating technical proficiency, and to validate its effectiveness. Methods: A comprehensive technology test platform for rock-climbers was constructed, including independently developed comprehensive technology force measuring equipment, a finger pressure testing device, a wireless surface electromyography, a grip dynamometer and high-speed cameras. Three key handgrip techniques—open slope grip, half crimp grip, and full crimp grip—were selected for testing. Hand strength, explosive force, individual finger pressure, and surface electromyography were calculated, and the biomechanical characteristics of different handgrip techniques were analyzed to construct a test and analysis method for the comprehensive technology of rock climbers. Results: The interclass correlation coefficient for the reliability test of the comprehensive technical measurement equipment were 0.922 and 0.953. The peak force exerted on holds was(305.6±82.7) N for the open slope grip,(331.1±75.0) N for the half crimp grip, and(387.3±80.0) N for the full crimp grip. There were significant differences in finger pressure and surface electromyography among the handgrip techniques. A significant positive correlation existed between grip strength and holds grip force only for the full crimp grip. Conclusions: Types of grip techniques affect the ‘person-hold' relationships. Grip strength, explosive force, and finger action patterns differ among the grip techniques. The full crimp grip maintains hold control and performs better in terms of explosiveness compared to other grip techniques, but it may increase the fatigue and injury risk to the forearms and hands. Grip dynamometers have limitations in evaluating the strength and technical level of climbing athletes.
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基本信息:
DOI：10.16470/j.csst.2025046
中图分类号:G881;G804.6
引用信息:
[1]彭宇婷,李上校,黄瑶涵,等.攀岩动作技术生物力学特征的测试方法构建及其应用：以抠法为例[J].中国体育科技,2026,62(01):19-28.DOI:10.16470/j.csst.2025046.
基金信息:
国家体育总局体育科学研究所基本科研业务费资助项目（基本25-06）
2025-11-07
2025-11-07
2025-11-07